Breakfast in Paris - Cafes, Bakeries and Beyond
An early morning bite in the hotel restaurant might seem like a convenient breakfast option, but in Paris, going out to a bakery or cafe for croissants and coffee is the authentic way to go.
Text by Sophie Carville
It may come as a suprise to some, but breakfast in Paris is not the big deal that it is in other countries such as the UK and certainly the US. The morning meal in Paris constitutes a croissant with butter and jam, a coffee and an orange juice, so be prepared for that. That being the case, you had better go out and eat as the Parisians do, in cafes. You can find petits dejeuners (breakfasts, just so you know what to look out and ask for) in the thousands of streets cafes scattered throughout the city. Whiling away a morning over your petit dejeuner may be pure pleasure, but if you're in a rush or want to save a euro or two, stand at the counter and eat there. Make your own choice where you go, based on the pastries in the window (the French are famous for their cakes for a reason) and whether you like the atmopshere of a place, but you’ll always do better away from the main tourist crowds – the food will be better and cheaper.
Alternatively, you can head for a bakery – find one which has some tables inside or get a takeaway and sit in a park or overlooking the river. If you choose the budget-conscious bakery option, here are a few suggestions for you:
Eric Kayser Boulangeries – There are over a dozen of these located throughout Paris, and they create the most exquisite breads and pastries you can find. There are often huge queues, but the staff are used to it and speed through the customers. Worth the wait. Not very cheap, but certainly more economical than settling down in a restaurant for a whole meal which you probably aren’t even in the mood for in the morning. Have a look at www.maison-kayser.com to get your mouth watering and to check out locations.
Boulangepicier is a good option – they do contemporary French bakery food, and good combination deals for breakfasts, which is helpful if that’s what you’re after. Staff are friendly and don’t mind speaking English if the idea of ordering in French is intimidating for you. Head to 73 Boulevard de Courcelles for a meal – the place is a bakery, a shop and a restaurant all rolled into one so you can get something a little more substantial should you so wish.
Pierre Herme patisserie is the one famous for the brightly coloured macaroons, which are light, sweet and delicious. Head to the “boutiques” (fancy bakeries indeed) at 72 Rue Bonaparte or 185 Vaugirard for some extreme yumminess.
Another good breakfast option is to find a crêperie. Crêperies are usually stands on street corners found throughout the city but in particular in the Latin Quarter where the students provide a roaring trade at all hours of the day. French crêpes are legendary: very thin, very wide and folded over delicious toppings, both sweet and savoury. Nutella, the French staple, is the favoured filling for most – you might not feel very healthy but by heaven, it’s good. Made fresh in front of you, it’s a great way to start your day.
And finally I should point out that there is now a “brunch” culture in Paris that the deeply hungover and late-risers may wish to take advantage of – the late morning meals are to be found in cafes and should fuel you, but then you miss out on the fixed-price lunchtime menus. Swings and roundabouts!
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