Le Procope – 13 Rue de L’Ancienne Comédie, 6th Arrondissement

Right, well we’d better start with the one that everyone seems to acknowledge is the oldest cafe in Paris. Dating back to a staggering 1694, Le Procope is named after Procopius, the Byzantine historian who wrote A Secret History, which basically thoroughly defamed Emperor Justiniun I.  The name was (very subtly) subversive, and during the French Revolution the Phrygian Cap, which was the symbol of liberty, was displayed at Le Procope, and famous revolutionary figures such as Robespierre and Danton used it as a meeting place.  

Based as it was across the street from the Comédie-Française Theatre, the cafe became known as the “theatrical cafe”, with the actors frequenting the place.  It was at one point known to be an intellectual cafe, too, with Voltaire making frequent appearances. Nowadays, the reports are mixed.  It is generally accepted to have average to good food.  As for the atmosphere, some are just happy with the abundance of history on offer here; others find the whole thing too touristy and the staff too rude.  Visit in the right frame of mind.

Café de la Paix – 5 Place de l’Opéra, 9th Arrondissement

Opened in 1862, Café de la Paix was officially declared a historic site by the French government.  Across the plaza is the Paris Opéra, the architect of which also designed this cafe.  It is elegant, classy and expensive, reviving a time of great opulence.  

Frequenters of the cafe through the centuries have included Massenet and Zola and then later, Sergei Diaghilev, of the Ballets Russes fame.  Edward VII of England, at that time Prince of Wales and jaunting happily about Europe, earning his reputation as a playboy and hanging out with the dancers of the Moulin Rouge, also made an appearance or two here.

Again, this is a place where you need to be all about the history to be thoroughly impressed.   There are better places to eat in Paris.  Nevertheless the food is decent and the atmosphere very decadent indeed, and as long as you’re prepared to fork out, it’s an enjoyable place for a visit.


Bouillon Chartier – 7 Rue de Faubourg Montmartre, 9th Arrondissement

Rather than just being all about its history, Bouillon Chartier (or Chez Chartier) holds to its original ethos from when it opened in 1896: Provide a hot, decent meal for a low price. It was originally intended to feed the working classes, and now it is an institution in Parisian culture, having changed very little since its opening.  

Chartier is about the antithesis to pretentiousness.  Orders are taken quickly, waiters dash madly around, food is served on plain plates, you may have to share a table and the menu has proper hearty dishes on it, such as lamb brains and tripe (though Bourguignon and Coq au Vin are also on offer for the less adventurous).  

Don’t come here for gourmet cuisine: come for the atmosphere.  And keep an eye out for the wooden chest of small drawers with numbers on them, an original feature of the place which was for loyal customers to keep their personal napkins in!