Trastevere is rione (district) XIII of Rome on the west side of the Tiber River and south of the Vatican. The name is derived from Latin “Trans Tiberim” which literally means “beyond the Tiber”. And just like the name states, this is what Trastevere is if you look at it from the “traditional” roman touristic areas.
In around 900 BC Trastevere was called Ripa Etrusca as it was controlled by Etruscan forces. A few hundred years later, in 509 BC to be exact, the area developed into quite a densely populated community with people mainly making a living through fishing in the river. Also immigrants from the East, such as Syrians and Jews settled in this neighbour. Throughout the years the Jewish community grew larger up until the middle ages.
When the region grew increasingly wealthy during the Imperial Age many important people saw Trastevere as an attractive neighbourhood and started to construct villas and houses scattered around the neighbourhood. In the years that followed, the area grew extremely dense with narrow streets connected in an incomprehensible pattern. This is what really contributes to the soul and atmosphere of Trastevere; narrow streets in a labyrinth-like pattern utterly scattered with little gems and treasures in forms of shops, cafés, restaurants and sights. Now it may be sometimes overlooked and ignored, but be confident: Trastevere is definitely worth at least one day of your time in Rome.
Restaurants
Whether you feel peckish or down-right hungry, there are numerous gastronomic options to choose from in this neighbourhood. First off, there is Glass on Vicolo del Cinque 58. This is a very modernistic venue with a keen eye for chic design and good food. Prices start from 18 Euros /main course. Another good restaurant which also offers an outside terrasse is Pizzeria ai Marmi on Viale Trastevere 53. This Pizzeria has friendly personnel, delicious variations of common and local pizzas and specialities and a nice ambiance. I’d say this place delivers a good price-to-quality ratio. Thirdly on Piazza Giuditta Tavani Arquati, 107 you’ll find Ai Bozzi. With a super-friendly English speaking personnel, excellent seafood and a good atmosphere for families with kids, this pleasant food corner will charm the pants of any customer. Prices are nothing out of the ordinary and you really get good for the price you pay.
Further down the list of recommendation-worthy restaurant is Ristorante Il Boom on Via dei Fienaroli 30A. Excellent pasta, cosy and welcoming atmosphere with a very nice and convivial staff, can it get any better? Neither cheap nor expensive, this restaurant is in the middle of the price scale. Augusto on Piazza de' Renzi 15, lastly is a restaurant you needn’t miss. It’s a small family run Osteria with delicious food, mouth watering desserts and excellent wines, all for reasonable prices. It’s located in the centre of Trastevere and tends to get very crowded, thus making a phone reservation is encouraged.
If you fancy something different, keep an eye out when strolling around in the beautiful and romantic neighbourhood of Trastevere, as you’ll find a pleasant surprise on almost every corner.
Shopping
With so many retail options in this area, it's best if you reserve one day specifically for shopping in Trastevere. Enter the neighbourhood from the Eastern side of Rome by first stopping at the Isola Tiberina, the little island in the middle of the Tiber River. Maybe it’s also a good thing to carry a map of Rome with you as entering Trastevere as a tourist can get quite frustrating once you find yourself walking in circles. Trastevere is like a labyrinth of little shops and venues, squares and narrow streets. Just walk around and admire, eat and drink well and you’ll come across more little independent shops than you could wish for. There is something for everyone - just take time to explore the neighbourhood.
Cafés
The same goes here as for the shopping section. Trastevere is so rife with little cosy and romantic cafés that it’s impossible to choose the best ones. Walk around the beautiful neighbourhood and once you start to feel like you want a cup of coffee or an ice cream, look at any direction and I bet you that there is a café within 20 metres. The café climate here really has to be experienced firsthand.
Sights
The first sight along the sightseeing trail isn’t actually a part of Trastevere. Isola Tiberina, a tiny little island in the Tiber River just in between the Western and Eastern sides of Rome, is a pleasant place to sit down and have a drink or a coffee (it’s the only bar/café on the island) before you enter Trastevere.
Next in line is the Santa Maria church on Piazza Santa Maria. This is one of the oldest churches in all of Rome, and as such, carries a lot of history, including old columns from other Roman buildings of different times, works of art and arguably the most beautiful mosaic patterns in the city.
On Largo Cristina di Svezia, 24 (north-west corner of Trastevere) you’ll find the utterly stunning Botanical Gardens featuring over 3500 species of plants and flowers. Surprisingly the Botanical Gardens also have a section for visually impaired people, which is basically a “feel and touch” section where you can touch and smell the plants and flowers.
Then there is the Villa Farnesina on Via della Lungara 230 (also to the north). Beautiful villa built by a rich banker, Villa Farnesia is internally decorated with frescoes from Raphael amongst others and is as near a piece of art a house can come. It will cost you 5 Euros to take a tour of some of the beautiful rooms, and I think it’s definitely worth it. You’ll be impressed.
Moreover, there is a wonderful flea market just off Piazza Ippolito Nievo to the south of Trastevere. Here you’ll find anything from bootleg CD’s to carpets and salami. It’s worth a visit if you’re like me and like browsing through both new and old junk and end up finding something you really wanted (or never knew you wanted until now). However, this area demands that you put your wallet in a safe place as pickpockets are quite often in action. Also, put your haggling skills en garde.
Bars
Just like with the cafés, bars are plentiful in Trastevere. Basically anywhere you go in this trendy part of the city you’ll find a cozy little bar to sip some local tipple. Starting off with Shelter on Via dei Vascellari 35, which is located in the more quiet part of Trastevere. It’s quite small but usually full of interesting people. Drinks are priced according to general Roman pricing standards (same prices as anywhere else) and well made. Friendly personnel and nice atmospheric lightning and music make Shelter a place you should visit.
Secondly, just off Piazza Santa Maria on Via della Lungaretta you’ll find Baccanale. This bar is very well hidden in the utter chaos of narrow streets, so you’re lucky if you find it. Finding it though is really worth its time because this bar has everything you could want: Friendly knowledgeable staff, wide assortment of libations, entertainment and a lot of people. Definitely worth a visit.
Also a bit further down on Via della Lungaretta is the Long Island. This bar is typical for Trastevere; cosy with a traditional and modern mixture. Very interestingly designed interior, nice staff and a wide variety of more or less complicated drinks make this place perfect to relax after one long day of getting lost in Trastevere.
What is written above are just a few recommendations of places not to miss, albeit we urge you to explore Trastevere on your own as well. Remember to bring a map though or you might just end up being stuck in there forever.