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In the heart of Anatolia, on the banks of the Tigris, enclosed by massive black basalt walls, lies Diyarbakir, a mighty fortress that served several great empires: the Roman Empire, its successor in the East - the Byzantine Empire, and then the Ottoman Empire. In more recent times, it was a center of the Kurdish movement and with its sizable Kurdish population has been referred to as the unofficial Kurdish capital. The city saw fifteen years of emergency rule that ended in 2002, and is now said to be safe for visitors.